Cross Post - Interlining

Well, I'm almost there. I did an informational post on interlining here.

Heads, Tails, or Sleeve Cuffs?

Hey Ya'll! So I've been tweaking my muslin. Since I'm trying to mimic the piping in this Ralph Lauren Dress, I'm trying to make heads or tails of these cuff instructions. Any tips, cause I'm really lost. I'm doing sort of a "cuff interfacing" which is really just sandwiching two together with piping... and does this make any sense? Still, the instructions look like the cuff is the wrong side out in the 'how to' but the main illustration seems right.

Why I haven't Finished

I had to shelve all my projects due to very catastrophic life changes.

Update - Sidetracked

Hello Ladies (and possibly gents)! First I want to thank you for all the help on my fitting issues. I have to say that after doing three muslins I got tired of looking at the project. It wasn't until I realized I was going to skip doing "the little details" that I want to make this a special project that I decided I needed a break. Instead I'm making some vintage clothing for my little girl. If anyone is interested I'll post pictures of that when I'm done!

I'll be back in the saddle and on my way before February is half over. Cheers!

(In the meantime, I've been up to other things too.)

Lady K - comments on sliding shoulders

Lady K- I read your post & comments with interest.  I think I understand what monkeysocks and Phyllis are saying regarding the shoulders.  I took the liberty of snagging a screen-shot and illustrating Phyllis's suggestion.  I use Snag-It for this.  Ladies, please correct me if I have mis-understood.

(Click to enlarge)

The photo above shows where to make a slash /overlapped edges to remove an inch (or whatever it takes) to pull that shoulder up to a more reasonable shoulder line.

The other issue, that monkeysocks mentioned, is that the whole upper bodice is too big.  The neckline stands away from your neck.  You may find that graceful and like it - or you may prefer the neckline to fit more closely.  If you want opt for the latter,  here is what I think is necessary:

click to enlarge

You'd have to make this adjustment to both front and back to get the neckline in the right place.  Then you'd alter the collar pattern.  That is not hard.

There is a lot to be said for starting with a pattern that fits you using the upper chest measurement (right under the armpits).  That usually (but not always) gives you the right fit in the neck and shoulders.  

A full bust adjustment is usually easier than trying to adjust neck and shoulders.  But- it all depends on your personal situation.

I hope this helps and keep us posted!

I love this style for you!

HELP! My shoulders are falling off!

Hi everyone! I am perplexed. I probably could have sewn this dress up as-is and had it mostly fit OK, except that I have large arms and bust. *sighs* This is for a 42" bust and I'm a 44. And in the light of full disclosure I'm 37" in the waist, 45" in the hips, and I'm 5'8" and a lot of that is in my torso (these are empirical[is that the right term?] measurements as I'm a USAnian).

So I've done a slight FBA, and I did a rounded shoulder adjustment (I work in the IT industry, slave away at a computer all day). I also did an adjustment for full arms. The sleeves themselves fit but the fall off the shoulder is just... weird. Also... excuse the construction issues I was sleep deprived when I put it together and it just didn't seem that important to have all the seams the right way on a test muslin. But honestly, I'm not sure what to do at this point. I need to add length, since the dress is suppose to belt at true-waist and there are half inch seam allowances. It falls about an inch above my belly-button so 1.5 inches added in length?

So here are some pictures. As you can tell I totally did my hair and makeup for these (not).

(Design on this calls for some gathering at the lower back into the skirt. See weirdness of shoulder and set-in sleeve.)

(exhibit A of need for more length in the torso)

(outside of the weird way the shoulder falls, I kind of think this looks OK here)

I swear my shoulders aren't that lopsided, it has to do with the only one sleeve.

I had to take out some gaping in the back bodice but wasn't sure how to take the volume out of the sleeve cap to match, especially considering I needed to make the sleeve wider for my sausage arms. Please help! Suggestions, point me toward some tutorials? I realized this is my first real foray into a woven top. All my tops have been knits so far because they are so much easier to fake good fit. The sad thing here is that despite all the issues it STILL fits better than RTW wovens. *sighs* I think that once I can get the top of this dress to fit I'd really only need a couple alterations to make it a plain shirt pattern as well. That would be awesome.

Snowed in with Fabric

Hi everyone! Wow, some of you ladies work really fast. I got my supplies in last week and then had to work. Been working from home, in fact. Here in the Southeast there's an inch of ice and even more snow on the ground and everything is shut down. Plenty of time to sew with no place to go! I'll be back soon with an update about my first muslin. (I started this post a couple days ago, but then got distracted with things like long neglected house work and kids home from school the entire week. SHEESH)

A House Dress Re-Imagined

Hello everyone! I go by ladykatza (or Lady K) and my blog is Peanut Butter Macramé. I will be working on a house dress pattern from the 1940's. I have actually been searching for a pattern like this since seeing Ralph Lauren's Spring 2010 collection. Here's the pattern:



I do not yet have the fabric, but I will be doing the 3/4 sleeve version out of a cotton poplin or similar fabric. The pattern instructions call for bound buttonholes so I think I might just cut my teeth on those for the first time. I'll be searching for fabric and post it here soon. Happy Sewing!