This is it - my final toile, in all it's glory:
What a kerfuffle! Since my last post I did the following refinements:
- lowered front neckline
- moved bust point of french dart
- reduced shoulder length and reshaped armhole front and back
- raised back darts
- taken in side seams and french dart
- shortened, and hem band = 10cm
- fixed shoulder drag lines
To fix the drag line between my shoulder and bust point, I first clipped into the armhole to the drag line to release the tension. The armhole edge opened up and the drag line disappeared - yay, cause of problem found:
However you can't exactly do this to your pattern, so on the opposite side I slashed to the neckline from that point, and here held together with red Christmas tape you can see the extra height I needed at the front shoulder, and this is essentially what I did to the pattern as well.
I cut it out this morning, and I just had enough fabric!
And the linen tells me my shears are very blunt!