pattern work Butterick 4627 coat

This weekend I worked on pattern alterations to Butterick 4627 coat.

First, I traced it onto Swedish tracing paper.  Then I carefully folded the pattern and stored it.  It's so fragile, I don't want to damage it.

I know what the fit issues will be, so I like to make flat pattern adjustments before sewing a muslin.  I used a TNT pattern (McCall's 5145) and compared the dimensions. I generally need to add height to the shoulder /armscye area and adjust the sleeve head.

The way I compare 2 very different armscyes is to mark the vertical center front and center back lines and horizontal lines at the bottom of the armscye as reference points. (See the green lines in the photo) Then I overlap my current project over the TNT pattern, aligning center front /back & armscye lines.  This is the easiest way I've found to get the alteration done without pulling my hair out.  Sewing something straight out of the envelope generally produces something so mysteriously unwearable that I have been known to ball it up, toss it in a trashcan and head to the mall.

This Butterick 4627 is a size 10, which I like because that shoulder length matches mine.  I would wear a size 20 if I used the usual bust-hips-waist to determine my size.

If you click on the image, you can see it larger:

The darts are pinned out in the bust area of both patterns.

After getting the shoulders, neckline and armscye altered, I went on to grade the pattern up at the waist and hips.

I just calculated the amount of ease in the size 10, and added the same amount to my own measurements.  I added some  to the the side seams, and the rest to the vertical wedges created by slashing & spreading down the middle of each front and each back piece.  

At this point, I've pinned the altered front and back on my dress form and it's looking about right.  Now I need to alter the sleeves.  I won't sew a muslin of the entire coat - it is just too much fabric!  But I will sew a partial muslin from the bust up.  I need to make sure all my little calculations and adjustments work properly.

I am not sure what has possessed me to sew another coat so soon.  They are so big and bulky and generally annoying to handle.  But, alas, my desire for this coat outweighs the inconvenience.

I must have it!