Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Need Your Opinions on This Jacket Collar, Please

Here is the muslin of my 1959 McCalls cutaway jacket. Fit is spot-on. I'll be making this out of a navy poly-wool blend that is contemporary-looking and has a wonderful stretch and sheen to it.

Here's where I need your opinions. The collar is not a traditional two-piece notched lapel. It's all one piece with the notches sewn and cut out to resemble a traditional lapel. See the pattern illustration below. What do you think of this feature? Too funky/hokey? Should I convert it to a shawl collar? I know I could draft my own two-piece collar, but that's really more work than I wanted to undertake with this. I would really appreciate your opinions. Thanks!


  1. I really like the collar just like it is. I think turning it into a shawl collar would take a little something away from it. My vote is 'leave it' - I think it's lovely.

  2. I think it adds to the vintage-ness, and doesn't look weird or hokey. I say leave it.

  3. I also like the notched collar, it has a more equestrian feel and I agree with Ginnie, a shawl collar would take somehting away. Also I can't even tell you how exciting it is too see a pattern made up that I held in my hand just a few weeks ago! When I first saw it I thought "Now that's a beauty, but I'll never get around to making it" but now I can still see it being made up, which is very cool.

  4. I prefer the notch to a shawl collar, but I agree it is a weird way of doing it. My instinct is to draft separate collars.

  5. I prefer the notched collar as well. First, it sits beautifully on a muslin, it will work even better with a fashion fabric.
    Second, it is a hybrid vintage/classic jacket. Last spring I did see a Piazza Sempione jacket that had a notched collar without the traditional two piece.
    You are on track, and when I read the fit is perfect, my initial response was- what problem??????